March 19th: Saint Joseph’s holiday traditions

Each March 19th, Puglia celebrates Saint Joseph’s day, a religious festivity that has its roots in the ancient culture and traditions of the region. Given that Saint Joseph was the father of Jesus, Festa di San Giuseppe coincides with Father’s Day in Italy. Here, between the sacred and profane, peculiar food rituals perpetuate since the Byzantine age, resulting in a fascinating blend exclusive to the Puglia region only.

The Saint Joseph’s tables

Those who know the strong Pugliese passion for authentic cuisine, won’t be surprised to discover that some significant festival practices are closely connected with the cooking culture of the Italian ‘heel’. The most representative traditions of this feast in Puglia are ‘Le tavole di San Giuseppe’ (The Saint Joseph’s tables) and the ‘zeppole’.

Le tavole di San Giuseppe’ is a ritual which takes place in several towns of Salento, the area located in the South of Puglia. Here, on the evening of March 18th, many local families open their homes to strangers and the poor, offering them numerous kind of food. Generally arranged on the living room table, these meals are donated as a sign of charity and devotion to Saint Joseph.

The tables are traditionally long and wooden, covered with a white tablecloth and decorated with flowers and candles, with a painting or an icon of the Saint in the centre. The most important element of a Saint Joseph’s table is the round shaped bread, made with the best flour of Puglia, selected by the local bakers since harvesting. Other typical dishes are ‘vermiceddhi’ – handmade pasta with chickpeas, boiled vegetables, fried fish or stock fish stew, ‘lampascioni’ – hyacinth bulbs, a regional specialty – and local wine.

It’s Time for Desserts

In Puglia, no meal can be without dessert, and le tavole di San Giuseppe is not an exception. Therefore ‘Cartellate’ – delish pastry with honey and walnuts – and “purciddruzzi” – toothsome tiny pastry balls deeply fried and coated with honey or sugar glace – are significant parts of the devotional banquet, which can be eaten until the following day, the Saint Joseph feast, on March 19th.

Zeppola

And when it comes to Saint Joseph Day in Puglia, you can’t miss Zeppola, another delicious dessert typical of this period. It is a fried doughnut, filled with custard and pastry cream and topped with powdered sugar. Much loved by locals and tourists, it is present in all confectioneries of Puglia at the end of February and for the whole month of March. It is so tender and delicious that you will never be satisfied with only one zeppola!

Saint Joseph’s festival is celebrated in many small and big towns of Puglia. Apart from the gastronomical stands with typical dishes, these feasts are often animated with folk music, devotional bonfires and spectacular illuminations adorning the main streets and squares of the cities. These days are also close to the beginning of Spring, a season particularly warm and enjoyable in Puglia.

So if you are planning your holiday in Puglia, Southern Italy in the end of March, is a perfect occasion to experience the ancient culture of Puglia while celebrating the holy day in honour of San Giuseppe.